Franco Manca

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Address: 20 Atlantic Road, SW9 8JA

Phone: 0207 738 3021

Website: https://www.francomanca.co.uk/restaurants/brixton/

Previous eat in review link – more than 10 years ago! Franco Manca has moved from its original small place that we often packed with a queue at weekends. It is now on Atlantic road in a big site that has seen several restaurants come and go. Brixton long-timers will know it as ‘The Railway’ or even as ‘Brady’s’. Inside it has a relatively small but bright room near the entrance with table and bar-type seating, but go up the stairs and on the left is a very large room that would be great for a pizza party – we noticed one going on when we visited.

We are very fond of Franca Manca, having been regular users back when it was Franco’s and only open during the day and then not on Wednesdays because of half-day closing! The current list of pizza’s has not been much revamped but changes with the seasons. They use sourdough with a starter they can trace to the 18th century – presumably via the original Franco. The dough is allowed to rise for 24 hours before they make the pizza then it is flashed in the incredibly hot oven for a really short time.

Of course there are pizza’s but there are also pre-pizza (olives, meat, salad stuff to share and small plates of aubergine parmigiana or cheesy stuff with meat). Salads to eat with or without a pizza – too many to describe and bread and dips. There is also post-pizza with affogato, tiramisu and other sweet treats. We were here for the pizza – was it as good as usual or was it becoming too speedy.

We chose a Napoletana and a spicy salami pizza (a sort of American hot).

The pizza below is the spicy salami one that had “lightly smoked beechwood spicy salami, organic tomato, mozzarella, caramelised red onions, homemade Franco’s chilli oil & fresh basil”. Not as hot as an American hot but the chili oil had a kick and the caramelised onions and cheese mellowed it all out.

The Napoletana had organic tomato, garlic, oregano, capers from Salina, Kalamata black olives, Cantabrian anchovies & mozzarella. This was delicious but a little more cooking would have made the dough even better.

We saw people taking pizza home but we finished the whole lot so had not space for post-pizza. We washed it all down with no logo craft lager and a glass of Montepulciana.

The bill came to £36.75 plus 10% service charge which is a lot less than most restaurants charge these days. The food only came to £22 so if you drink water this is a very reasonable place to eat. We were also full, so couldn’t squeeze in another bite. If you want to run through the menu then come with friends and only order a few pizzas so you can try the pre- and post-pizza specialties.

Temaki

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Address: 12 Market Row, SW9 8LB

Website: https://temaki.co.uk/

Booking: Open Table

This is not a new restaurant but we thought we would revisit as it is ages since we went. We also thought we were not very hungry after visiting the Ritzy – we discovered that we did have an appetite after all as this is a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds. The restaurant is small with few seats (for seats think of high stools that are arranged around the bar so you can see how all the dishes are made and served as well as being able to chat with the chefs. So you get the opportunity to ask what each thing is and of course think – well I would like to try that one too. The place was full except for one or two stools and the two tables in the cold in the alleyway. We bagged the last two seats so we advise booking.

There is a menu online and one on the board so we can’t produce them all here. There are small plates, snacks like tempura, pickles, and sashimi as well as the temaki. We chose the following some from the menu and some from the board. In order of photos: tuna temaki with shiso, Pork Gyoza, lobster temaki, miso aubergine temaki, 2 scallop ikura temaki, crispy rice temaki and pickles. We drank water and a Sakura Yuzu Negroni and a Temaki old fashioned.

All looked pretty of course and invited a bite. Starting with our favourites – the aubergine and the tuna tataki with shiso. We loved them both but particularly the tuna that was very complex even if some bits did start to make their way off the plate. The gyoza’s were also meaty and warming with the light soy sauce. We also loved the lobster with egg yolk, miso and citrus but we were split on the scallop (I thought it was too fishy). I am running out of hyperbole but the pickles were really useful to cut the richness between dishes. I was a bit disappointed by the crispy rice – they were an addition as we saw someone else order them. They looked incredibly pretty but were a bit oily and didn’t really hit the taste buds like the other dishes.

The drinks were small with lots of ice and were just right for the time we were there. You might be tempted with another as this is a leisurely meal. We did like our cocktails but couldn’t really detect what made them different to those we have had in a normal bar.

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Here we come to the bill. Do not come here hungry unless you have a large bank account. In total it was £129.95. The drinks were expensive at £22 for the two and there is a whopping £16.95 (16%) service charge. However, we will be going back as we loved the theatre and skill of the chefs. We know how much goes into each bite and so are willing to pay what it is worth but perhaps next time we will have a pizza first.

Club Mexicana

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Address: 14B-C Market Row, SW9 8LD

Website: https://www.clubmexicana.com/locations/brixton/

We wandered down Market Row on a Saturday lunchtime and kept seeing restaurants we loved closed or changed, as is always happening. Some have gone to warmer climes in central London, some were just a pipedream and came to a sticky end. Then we came across Club Mexicana which is bright and inviting on a lacklustre November day. In fact, so bright you might consider sunglasses. This is the second site in London, the other one in hip Shoreditch.

Although the bar stools looked inviting with their view of the chefs, we took seats in the main area. It is clearly a place for a cocktail or three and a group were doing that even at 1.30pm. The food with its delicate little mouthfuls is clearly something that can soak up the alcohol. So, we followed in their footsteps.

The menu consists of Nachos, Tacos, Burritos and Empanadas together with “sides”. Up to this moment I didn’t realise it was vegan. How could you when the menu suggests BBQ short rib taco and To-Fish and Chips Taco, and finally a “beef brisket”. When I tasted our choices, I was still uncertain.

We chose a top of the range Brixton burrito (flour tortilla around “beef” mince, “cheese”, rice and a whole lot more), Empanadas (a pocket with stuff and “cheese”), and BBQ rib tacos (sticky glazed “ribs” and more).

The burrito was very large as you can see and almost defeated a very hungry man, but he was helped out by his lunch companion.

The empanadas were small and crispy and we devoured them all.

The BBQ rib tacos were really sticky and tasty – was it really plant-based…..

It was pretty and pretty good too. Not too hot but if you need extra then get a hit of the salsa picante on the table.

There is a large drinks menu with cocktails, frozen cocktails, mocktails, beer (Mexican and from Brixton) and natural wine as well as 5 different tequilas. But there are also drinks like “soda” and there is water on the table. We drank a Modelo (Mexican beer) and a classic margarita. We enjoyed the alcohol as we rolled into Saturday night. But we really loved the food too and definitely a go to place for all the carnivores during Vegan January – but don’t miss out for the Christmas treat. You can order takeaway and delivery but also they have sharing feasts, but there were only two of us so we will return with a lot of friends. The bill was £46.69 including the alcohol and 12.5% service charge.

House of Momo

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Address: Granville Arcade, Text

Unit 71-72

Website: https://houseofmomo.co.uk/

It isn’t often that we wander round Brixton Village and find space in any of the food outlets but on this occasion we were lucky. Then we discovered that we were not really lucky as House of Momo is open 7 days a week – so no baked bean Mondays. The restaurant is inside and outside. We chose inside, one of the few tables available, as it was a bit cool in the Village corridor. Decor is limited – wooden benches and tables but little on the walls as most is window.

A Momo is a steamed and filled dumpling from Nepal or Tibet. It is usually served with a sauce called Achar. They offer steamed and steamed and fried momos filled with Chicken, Veg, Cheese & veg or Beef, but also there are Thalis, curry, fried rice and noodles or a combination (Combo) of rice or chow mein together with momos.

We chose two “combos” – fried rice and chicken steamed momos covered with sweet, hot and spicy sauce and steamed and fried momos filled with beef on top of chow mein with that same sauce.

We liked the steamed dumplings but the fried ones when cooler were a bit tough so we recommend sticking to the steamed ones – alternatively order the fried ones separately as a starter, so you can definitely eat them while they’re hot. We liked the noodles and the fried rice – both were very big portions and spicy, the rice a little more than the noodles. The veg additions gave them some texture and a bit of a bite.

They were very large portions, so we were too full for dessert.

There were soft drinks, juices, beers, wine, whiskey (Hibiki and Nikka!) and mixers like gin and tonic as well as a tea selection. We washed everything down with water, a mango lassi and a beer.

The bill was £36.00 and we were full. Service was fast and we could easily have made it to the Ritzy for a later show, but we returned to lolling on the sofa while we digested all this food. We will return when we are not on a calorie-controlled diet.

Llewelyn’s

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293–295 Railton Road, Herne Hill, London SE24 0JP

Website: https://llewelyns-restaurant.co.uk/

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Llewelyn’s has been through many iterations but is still going strong as shown by the clientele on Friday lunchtime. This was a business/pleasure luncheon, so we were prepared to do some serious eating and drinking. We ate inside as the weather was inclement and to cheer ourselves up had a cocktail. Both of us chose a blackberry martini which was small and sweet with hidden depths (no idea what they were but it was definitely alcoholic).

Despite the reviews about the speed of the service (too fast) ours wasn’t slow but was not at the breakneck speed others have commented on. It was also not too loud, but there were no big groups celebrating on Friday lunchtime. We were able to have a civilized conversation and swap gossip! The lunchtime menu is not long, which is a blessing. It has vegetarian options, but we are omnivores. We chose a couple of the nibbles to share – boquerones (anchovies in oil and vinegar) and coppa (dry cured pork neck fillet, similar to prosciutto but that comes from the hind leg). Given the relatively small offering, the coppa was expensive but delicious.

Then we missed the starter section which has three vegetarian offers as well as chicken livers and sardines and all looked interesting. There were five mains on the menu with one veggie option, two fish and two meat. Again, we headed into the carnivore section with pork belly (with boudin noir (black pudding), celeriac and apple sauce) and the roast mallard (with quince, water cress and bread sauce). We had a side order of crispy potatoes and aoli. The pork belly looked very inviting, crispy skin and a delicious centre. This dish had an additional part not mentioned on the menu – roasted red cabbage. Some was left on the plate as it was a little hard to cut and chew on.

I loved the accompaniments to the duck – the bread sauce and quince. I was warned about “shot” appearing in the mallard and to be careful when chewing. In the end shot was absent. I would have liked the duck to have been rested as blood ran out and it was a bit tough, but I almost finished it, so it was clearly tasty.

The crispy potatoes were crispy and the aoili delicious – we didn’t finish them all – a sacrilege but I was leaving room for pudding.

There are three desserts to choose from and I had the Clementine Choux bun with sea buckthorn. I still don’t really know what the sea buckthorn tastes of – I guess it is tart, but the orange flavour either overwhelmed or complimented the cream and the choux. Anyway, we were so engaged in our conversation that I ate it (with help) before we realised that we hadn’t taken a photo. I would order again as it was delicious and not too sweet. My lunch companion had a sweet wine to finish – Szlachetny Zbior which he reported was good. We think it is Polish.

We were both full and not hassled about the table (despite the information on their website), so had a leisurely lunch with alcohol. As well as the cocktail and the sweet wine, we also had a bottle of Bergerac rouge and a single small glass of Cauzon Tinto – neither were the most but certainly not the least expensive on the menu. This is not a cheap restaurant but we did spend £83 on alcohol so you could make the bill much lower – ours came to £211.39 including 12.5% service. The food only came to £105.00. We may go again when we have made our New Year resolutions and will try to stick to them.

Batanga

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S38, Pop Brixton, 49 Brixton Station Road, Brixton, SW9 8PQ

Batanga is a cocktail made from Tequila, lime juice and coke and also gave its name to a tequila/mescal bar on the top floor of Pop Brixton. It’s not far from the other bar we have frequented (see here for our review of ABV). You can sit inside the tight fitting bar, but on our visit we sat listening to the music and in the open air that had cooled a little by 6.30pm. There are several long picnic tables and benches and most people were sharing (as we were).

The two of us ordered a drink each from the extensive menu, so we can’t claim to have carried out a comprehensive investigation. One of us wasn’t drinking, but they happily provided a non-alcoholic version, i.e. a cocktail without the tequila.

One classic Margherita and an apple soda type thing. Most of the other customers had long drinks, which was probably a good choice on what was a hot evening. There was a bit of nostalgia as the Margherita came in an original Babycham glass, which might mean more to our older readers.

The bill came to £14.63 including service with the soda being £2.00 and the alcoholic drink £11.00.

Maremanno

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19 Tulse Hill, Brixton, SW2 2TH

https://www.ilmaremmano.com/

Only open Wednesday to Saturday 5-11.00pm

This is styled as a Apericena Bar – a cross between an aperitif and dinner. It is a close relation of the restaurant Maremma round the corner in Brixton Water Lane. We’ve been there a number of times, with the most recent review here. They both serve regional specialties from the Maremma in southern Tuscany and the offer is similar. Maremanno is aimed more at what’s known as casual dining. You can sit inside or in a small courtyard at the back. It is a squeeze, so you definitely need to book, especially if the weather is fine.

They have Stuzzicini (bread, nuts, parmesan biscuits etc), Crostini (chicken liver and truffle, green anchovy, or peppers and courgette), Taglieri (a meat or cheese board) and Pizzette (small or very small pizza with tuna etc or mushrooms). Of course this all comes with cocktails, wine or beer.

We were three people so indulged ourselves at least one dish from each category. So we had Nduja arancini, green anchovy arancini, the cheese board, a vegetable bagna cauda, and a four cheese pizzette.

We finished with a gelato scoop

We washed it down with a Spritz classic, a glass of frizzante wine and crodino spritz, and then had further wine and beer.

The bill came to £100.30 without service. We were full but we might have lingered and chosen a little better.

Tsunami

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5-7 Voltaire Road, Clapham, SW4 6DQ

Reservations: 020 7978 1610

https://tsunamiclapham.co.uk

Surprisingly this our first review visit to Tsunami in Clapham North. We had a home delivery during lockdown (see here) although we have visited several times. It might be a “short bus ride” entry, but, for us at least, buses don’t go that way.

This is a restaurant that has survived and grown in size. Not only does it have a covered area outside but is now twice as big as when it started so they must be doing something right. As with most restaurants, alcohol looms large with pages of cocktails to choose but we are in a sober period so only ordered tea. What was a surprise is that they only have it in tea bags and only three kinds given that it is a Japanese restaurant.

They have an extensive menu with appetizers like edamame beans to nibble with your cocktails, appetizers, salad, nigiri and sashimi, sushi, tempura, and mains including teriyaki. Then they have side orders and desserts.

We decided on sushi and a couple of mains to leave room for dessert. We ordered Dragon rolls – which are a sort of inside out sort of sushi with shrimp tempura and scallion with eel and avocado outside served with an Eel sauce. Not really traditional but definitely not a problem, and we also ordered Japanese pickles to cut the sweetness of the sauce in the Dragon rolls. This was definitely a good choice. The Dragon rolls have the nori sheet wrapped around the inside ingredients and the sushi rice is still on the outside, but then spotted with sauce. They were a little sweet but warmed up with wasabi, and the ginger in-between cleared the palate. If you want them much warmer they have Volcano Dragon Rolls. We love pickles so these maki were delightful.

We also ordered boa buns with chicken Katsu and coleslaw and spicy morillo mayo – a sort of global recipe not usually in Japanese restaurants but we were enthusiastic. You can pick it up and as long as you can keep the sauce inside you only need to lick your fingers. Finally we chose something from the appetiser section – scallops in a sauce (sorry we didnt take notes) that arrived flaming to the table – with whisky. This did give it a smoky flavour and the scallops although a little lost were still noticeable although more are needed so the sauce doesn’t wash away the flavours.

Then we have dessert. A yuzu panna cotta and mochi (vanilla and mango). Unfortunately the panna cotta didn’t have enough yuzu and it was large so I didn’t finish it. I was glad I ordered the green tea ice cream to go with it as it cut through the richness of the panna cotta (set cream). The mochi were cut in half and although were good they were very soft. Both the desserts were very pretty and came with delightfully shaved fruit so a great end to the meal.

We were glad to eventually visit this restaurant that filled up pretty quickly as we hit 7.30. It wasn’t cheap even without the cocktails (tea was £5.00 for a small pot). The total came to about £70 odd as we lost the bill. We will visit again as it has a long menu to discover.

The Joint

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Address: 4th Avenue, Brixton Village Market SW9 8PS

telephone: 07717 642812

https:thejointldn.com

We don’t buy much meat but on occasion we just want to tuck in. This was that occasion on a trip round Brixton Village on a Friday with few places to spare – even though early. We have reviewed this restaurant before and on this occasion went inside out of the clamour of the hallways. As always we ordered a lot, but not as much as our neighbours, who were definitely flagging. They say on the website that this is not fine dining and they are right, it is meat and a sauce so be prepared to get your hands sticky.

The offer is wings, pulled pork, burgers and ribs and for the faint-hearted a halloumi burger or tacos without the meat. Luckily only three sauces to choose from – BBQ, Spicy, Korean. There are also sides, the usual fries or the sweet potato or cheesy variety. Neither of us went for the deep fried mac and cheese bites and we disowned any salad – we wanted to concentrate.

First up there was a large order of BBQ wings – large means large and I was probably ok with the children’s version. They were as they suggest, luscious, sticky and eaten with fingers although they do provide a dainty fork.

Then there was the large portion of ribs – Korean sauce accompanying it just to get a sweat on. Again these are hard to handle and need some delicate cutting to get it finger sized. But it was as promised hot and meaty and very, very large.

Of course we couldn’t eat without fries, but we were conservative and chose the chips that come with salt and are just the right crunch.

The bill for Joint came to £33.75 inclusive of one beer and service. The large sized meat orders are £10.00 each and we suggest sharing.

We did think that we were full but wandered past Kaspas Desserts in Rushcroft Road and had two of their cornets – there must be a second stomach for desserts. We cannot remember what they cost, but it was very little, and we cannot remember what flavour we chose, but they were both delicious.

Ice creams from Kaspas – https://kaspas.co.uk/ Unit 3, 11 Rushcroft Road, SW2 1JH

Forza Win – a short bus ride away

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29-33 Camberwell Church Street

https://forzawin.com/

This is a relatively new Italian restaurant in Camberwell with a great offer for lunch – 3 courses for £20.00 – which we couldn’t resist. It is on a corner and has taken over the premises of a previous tapas restaurant. Camberwell has certainly added to the culinary fare recently with many new offerings. We chose a Thursday lunchtime and that may be a busy time as it was buzzing (as were many of the other restaurants and cafes).

For starters we chose sourdough foccacia with garlic (lots of garlic) that we forgot to photograph but take it from us the portion was huge. The other two chose the same dish – mushroom fritti with fennel and chili mayonnaise. This was spicy so the fennel rather passed us by, but again the portion was huge – this photo just shows one of them.

Next on to the pasta – again two of us chose the same dish – linguine with crab, datterini and capers – the other member of our group, daring to be different, chose spaghetti, roasted tomatoes and parmesan, lots of parmesan. It turns out that datterini are actually tomatoes which you can see in the photo. The literal translation is “little dates” as they are small, elongated and very sweet. All plates were licked clean – not because we were that hungry after the huge starters, but because it was delicious.

Finally, we had two different puddings – a chocolate pot with caramel that was hidden at the bottom and a “custardo” (quotes are theirs) which essentially is an affogato with the ice-cream element served hot so it is sweet and thick and for sipping. All were delighted with the choices even if we needed to wake up mid-afternoon to do a bit more work.

The bill was £66 with service. If you have wine then it is about £35.00 a bottle.